In light of the upheaval caused by current events, the industry leader spoke with its customers about their concerns, priorities and goals. During the discussions, five issues emerged as strategically essential and urgent. Customers are concerned about profitability despite rising costs, preserving our natural foundations, responding quickly and flexibly to market demands, identifying and developing new business opportunities, stable value creation processes despite a shortage of skilled workers and exploiting the potential offered by digitalization.

As answers to these customer questions, KARL MAYER will be showing new developments and innovations at ITMA 2023 in Milan which will significantly advance its warp knitting customers in their sectors.

Raschel goods made from staple fibers and fresh new designs for spacer fabrics

From the Raschel machine range, the new RSJFS 4/1 EL, 130", E14 will be presented. This high-performance model produces fabrics with a flat or circular knitted-like look in hand-made style while offering maximum productivity. Dense, complex patterns and crochet- and knitted-like designs are possible, as are open structures, all of which open up new avenues for knitting technology in the fashion sector. A special configuration ensures the implementation of the new knitted fabric looks. As a new sustainability feature, the machine can process staple fibers and bio-based materials such as 100% cotton, and in the jacquard bars, coarse yarns up to 1,000 dtex.

The RDPJ 6/2 EL MC, 138" marks the premiere of a new double-bar raschel machine. With its potentiated patterning options, the newcomer is revolutionizing spacer fabric design. More color and new jacquard techniques make highly creative multi-color designs possible, making spacer textiles highly interesting not only for the established footwear sector but also for the fashion and home textile sectors. If spun-dyed yarn is used, the textile dyeing process is omitted. This avoids environmental pollution and consumption of resources and, in addition to the ecological footprint, also reduces the costs of the textile value chain.

In addition, special patterns that were previously produced with yarn from a creel can now be worked with a material feed from warp beams and extravagant TECHNOLACE.FASHION articles can be produced. For maximum flexibility, the new double raschel machine uses pattern data from the cloud.

Even more customer benefits through HKS digital generation with performance upgrade

An HKS 3-M ON, E 32, 130" completes the machine show in the warp knitting sector. The latest model of the digital tricot machine generation combines top machine performance with the latest technology features for maximum efficiency and competitiveness. The flexible all-rounder works with pattern data from the cloud and thus enables the fastest possible reactions to trend changes: Patterns can be changed at the click of a mouse on the computer and without manual intervention, as when working with pattern discs. In addition to the handling effort, costs and environmental pollution caused by the production, transport and storage of mechanical data carriers are eliminated. Moreover, patterns are 100% reproducible, also without any manual adjustments.

The HKS 3-M ON also sets the pace in production itself. The model is the fastest three-bar tricot machine with electronic guide bar drive on the market and now achieves an unprecedentedly high speed even with Multi Speed patterning. The basis for this is a well thought-out design innovation in the yarn feed, which works through intelligent networking with the cloud using optimum data for the yarn feed calculated there. The additional feature ensures reliable and fast yarn delivery when working sequentially, for example in the production of pleated articles, as will be demonstrated during the trade show.

Another contribution to greater profitability is an innovative solution for process integration at the machine exit. A new batching device picks up the finished goods and determines their weight at the end, without the need for transport routes and time-consuming rearrangements. A label printer, which is also new, can be used to create a label with the measured value and additional useful data. By networking with the cloud, additional information related to the fabric beam can be transferred to a production management system.

Further optimizations simplify and speed up handling. These include the Spring Motion Assistant for unhooking the guide bars in no time at all and without tools, and a new adjustment mimic for precise, uncomplicated setting of the sinker levers, which is now possible even in a suit.

The HKS 3-M ON is also equipped with a direct drive, thus using less energy and generating a smaller carbon footprint. The new energy monitoring system will also be demonstrated on this machine.

Inspiration, new ideas and more

A show of innovative textile solutions rounds off the warp knitting exhibition. Under the motto WARP KNIT SEAMLESS, garments will be shown that are produced completely in one piece, without any seams on the machine. Functional zones can be incorporated into the articles according to the body-mapping principle, or items for individualization such as labels or logos. The seamless design reduces the number of production steps in the subsequent finishing and garment making process, thus reducing costs and environmental impact. In addition, on-demand production becomes lucrative.

The INNOVATIVE FASHIONABLE 3D-SEAMLESS collection presents new chic apparel items with relief-like structures and surfaces. These fashion items can also be produced with reduced process steps.

The WARP-KNITTED CROCHET-KNIT section showcases the possibilities of the new RSJFS 4/1 EL, including creations in a trendy crochet look made entirely of cotton. The use of natural fibers meets the growing market demand for sustainable products.

More dimensions in the design of warp knitted spacer fabrics are presented under 4D-KNIT – THE NEXT GENERATION OF SPACER. New are mainly articles with two-colour-effects and good insulating properties, which are achieved by the patterning and the yarns used. The decisive advantage over brushed fleece counterparts is low microparticle contamination during washing.

The SUSTAINABLE TERRY FABRICS home leisure and beachwear collection presents new elastic terry knitted fabrics that are comfortable to wear due to their stretchability. In addition, advantages over comparable woven fabrics are offered, including high pull-out resistance of the pile material and thus durability and lower consumption of water, energy and textile chemicals.

From the lace sector, articles are shown that achieve high wash resistance through the clever use of elastane in various variants. For this property, work is done without using a staggered pillar stitch. Other performance features include a soft touch and resistance to the slippage effect of elastane.

In addition to the garments, a selection of innovative warp knitted fabrics provides inspiration. Highlights include high-impact multicolor spacers from the new double-bar raschel machine, further CROCHET-KNIT examples, articles made from staple fibers, including merino wool, and goods with the look of woven fabrics.